Many more photos on David Grant

This is the diary for our first day November 1st

We left home the previous day and had an uneventful flight on Turkish Airways business class to Istanbul. There we had a an eight hour wait in the lounge before our flight onwards to Johannesburg. The food in the lounge was really interesting, however the seating was not quite so exciting, but adequate. Just after midnight we boarded the flight onwards to Johannesburg. Arriving there before 11 am.

There there was a bit of a hiccup as our chauffeured car that had been ordered via "E Life Limos" did not turn up. And with no Wi-Fi available in the airport, it took a long time to sort out but eventually we were reunited with this car and an elderly South African who drove us to Pretoria: he was not happy with the present government of South Africa.

We were delighted with our room at the Apogee Boutique Hotel . But it did not have a balcony which we had booked. The staff were slightly poncey. I had a swim in the pool after getting the management to remove the cleaning vacuum from it. It was cold but really pleasant. Back in the room we enjoyed a hot bath and a cup of coffee and then had a sleep for an hour or so. We went down to dinner early, soon after seven. Food was good, but unfortunately the restaurant was cold and subject to icy draughts, we also disagreed with the fact that we had to pay for the meal there and then and we’re not allowed to put it on the hotel bill. We had a delightful chat with a South African lady who had fallen in love with the boys, then back to the room for another coffee, dictating this diary and catching up on emails.

At leisure in Pretoria. November 2nd

Apart from arguments with the hotel, this was an uneventful day spent in the Apogee hotel. We went down to breakfast and asked about changing our room to one with a terrace which was what it stated on our confirmation and about which I had spoken to the assistant manager the previous evening Very reluctantly, he decided that he did in fact have a room with a terrace that he could move us to. I have booked a massage the previous night for 10 am that it transpires that I could not have this without paying for it in advance, the sum required was 990 rands. This stupid man wanted 1000 and we decided that we were best of canceling it and ditto with breakfast. They would not put our breakfasts on the bill, so we declined breakfast. It was a peculiar way to run a hotel.

So we had a full day without any meals, surviving with coffee and little cakes that were in their pantry with some cereal as well . We had a couple of walks around the garden, not trusting ourselves to walk in the streets of South Africa and I also had a swim which was good. There was a 40th birthday party in the evening: : they were all wearing black and white.

We also had a gin and tonic and half a bottle of wine during the course of the day, and David signed up to the Uber app as the hotel seemed unable to get us a taxi early the next morning.

First day aboard our Rovos Rail train. November 3rd

We left the hotel by 7:30. in the Uber car that David had ordered in order to arrive at Rovos Rail by 8 am so as to see the museum before boarding the train. Once there we were left for 90 minutes, at least, doing nothing before we discovered that the museum was in fact very near by, and then we explored it by ourselves. A musical duet had meanwhile performed the gardens.

It was after 10 before we were taken to the station, where we met Mr Rohan Vos, the owner,  of the company. The boys were delighted to have their photo taken with him. He then gave us a tour of his workshops which converted old carriages to upmarket restored versions . He gave us lots of details about the problems of running the company. Then we boarded about 12.30. We did a little bit of unpacking before heading to the observation deck for a while before lunch at one. This was a very pleasant meal and we went back to the observation deck for a coffee afterwards. Then back to the cabin, it was called "Clivia" (it is a variety of South African flower), to finish the unpacking in a very limited space. This was followed by a light tea towards the rear of the train. More conversation on the observation deck before changing for dinner. Then a cocktail before dinner. It was a very long walk from one end of the train to the other, very pleasant , and I was glad to retire by 10 o’clock , to write the diary and hope for a good night sleep.

Scenic tour of the Drakensberg Sat, 4 Nov

We had an 8 am start from the train for our scenic panoramic tour of the North Drakensberg mountains. We stopped after two hours for a comfort stop at Simba and then drove another hour or so. To the Bourke's  Luck potholes. This was quite a challenging walk, but very enjoyable and scenic. Then on to  lunch at an upmarket hotel where we could’ve swam in a beautiful pool , had they but told us in advance.

We sat out in the sunshine for quite a long time after this having had access to the Internet. After this on to the Blyth River Gorge where we descended in an elevator to the floor of the gorge and took a very pleasant walk. There was a wondrous waterfall and a bungee jump from above this which was quite spectacular. There was a circular walk through the vegetation which went over several bouncy bridges . We had to get PJ to pay for the elevator as we have not been told in advance that we had to pay for this.

Our final stop was at Pilgrims Rest, a gold mining town turned tourist attraction: this had been badly hit by Covid , was mainly closed up and was not worth a visit. We then headed back to link up with the train which had not moved since the morning due to the theft of overhead cables which is quite common in South Africa. Eventually, as dusk was falling, we found the train after driving down a small track and boarded it across the rails. Surprisingly, the staff emerged onto the rails with trays of drinks which I thought very peculiar .

After this. David had to fill in loads of forms for future countries . We managed to get to the bar and I had a pre dinner drink of whiskey sour. A very pleasant meal and then drinks in the bar again before an early bed.

Kruger National Park .Sunday November 5th

An early start order to board our Safari wagons which were ready alongside the train at 6:30 am , breakfast being a bit chaotic. We were in a 10 seater wagons, with  just four of us are the two being Germans. We entered the Kruger Safari Park fairly soon and and saw huge warthogs, a  miniature giraffe, loads of impala and some other animals before spotting  a leopard.

At 9:30 we stopped for a coffee and muffin: we were horrified at how many safari jeeps were at the centre. We then continued for another 2+ hours, seeing zebra, four  rhinos altogether, some large tortoises  crawling across the road and  a herd of water buffalo. We then had a hotel lunch and I had a swim .

On the return journey we observed three Lions, another Hyena and seven giant Hornbill, We were back at the train soon after four, I wrote some WhatsApp’s and then read the Sunday Times up in the bar.

Supper was very good. Followed by sitting out on the observation  deck

Maputo. Monday November 6th

A really bad night with the train jolting until it came to a halt in Maputo. Breakfast was chaotic and we left the train by 9 o’clock for a tour of this capital of Mozambique. We walked round the impressive station, which was listed as one of the 10 top stations in Africa.

Then we walked to the market which was very much like markets everywhere so we stayed outside for about 20 minutes waiting for the rest to exit. After this, we headed to the botanical Gardens, where PJ gave a talk about Mozambique, African wars and how this affected  Mozambique today. Then we had some free time before heading to the lunch hotel, with a drive along the Costa del Sol.: it was a very luxurious hotel,  the Serena, and the salad selection was excellent. We were allowed almost 2 hours for lunch but we’re not allowed to swim in the pool so we had lots of time to waste.

Then a drive back to the train passing by the fort. We were back aboard by four and I had a siesta before going to the observation lounge to see the departure from town. We had dinner with Denese and Jilly who had worked as teachers in Lesotho. Then a nightcap in the bar before hopefully a good night sleep with the train at rest.

Swaziland / eSwatini Tuesday November 7th

The service at breakfast was reasonable. Disembarked , and boarded a bus for a candle factory just over an hours drive away. We were given over an hour to shop which we thought was a bit too much but then I was biased by the fact that I couldn’t see the candles!.

We then drove to a culture centre where we sat through a show of about 30 minutes which was quite reasonable, followed by a tour of Swazi typical village which was interesting. Then on to lunch. By this time, it was raining quite heavily. The food was very good .There was no chance of having a swim , but we got Wi-Fi for the tablets and phone.

We were back aboard the train by 3.30 pm where we discovered a leak in our cabin which was quickly fixed with the promise that the chambermaid would change the now wet bed. We had tea and a drink in the observation lounge, then a shower and into dinner. After dinner we found my bed have been made up still very damp so we had to search for Elizabeth to get her to organise a dry Mattress, then a very early night as we were going to have to get up at 5 am for a game drive.

Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre, an Animal Sanctuary. Wednesday November 8th

We had to get up at the unearthly hour of 5 o’clock for a scheduled 5:30 am, depart to a game park. But as per usual the train had not traveled as far as it was thought during the night and we did not leave the train till well after six. It was a short ride in the bus to the private reserve of Hoedspruit where we had 2+ hour game drive, with an agreeable driver called Daniel.

We saw fantastic, dung, beetles, zebra, giraffe, hippos, a distant lion, and lots of impala also a sable There was a coffee break, and a video of the work of the Hoedspruit sanctuary. After this, we got back in our 10 seater vehicle with Daniel and had a tour of the cheetah rehabilitation sanctuary. Here we saw three rhinos with Molly, a sheep who was their companion, four cheetah siblings on the top of a hill, three wild dogs, a leopard and a large bird who had killed two wives. The intention was to release these animals back into the wild, and this appeared to be happening.

We were back at a station by noon where the train had moved to. There we visited to the chemist to get a few necessities. After the video David had gone into the craft shop, and surreptitiously bought Leo, a wondrously cute leopard cub, who appeared in the cabin as a surprise for me once back aboard the train. Lunch followed on the train and then I had a siesta before the train arrived at another disused station where it took on water and a replacement engine arrived. We were able to walk the length of the platform a couple of times.

And we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink by ourselves on the outside of the observation lounge before dinner. This had an African theme but was really limited to the staff dressing in African dress and some tableware. Afterwards it was meant to be cocktails in the bar, these turned out just to be a selection of the liqueurs for the evening, but the invite did attract a lot more people to the bar after dinner than all other evenings.

A Day at leisure, no outing . Thursday November 9th

A leisurely day with no outings. We enjoyed our breakfast at 8:30, and then went along to the observation car in to view the dramatic gorge scenery for about an hour.

Then PJ gave a talk in the lounge but two listening devices failed to work for me, so I walked out and read in the cabin for almost 2 hours. A pleasant lunch was followed by a siesta and then we walked out on the platform again at the station where the train had stopped for exit in South Africa and entering Zimbabwe.

We talked to Lawrence and he took us to the engine and introduced us to Leike, the driver. There we stayed until dark , almost 3 hours: I had become convinced that we would be there till we stopped for the night pause. But in fact, soon after seven Leike stopped the train for us and someone escorted us with a powerful torch alongside the train until we could climb into it. Dinner was as good as ever

Great Zimbabwe. Friday November 10th

We had a good breakfast and boarded the coach at 8 o’clock for our departure to Great Zimbabwe. This was a journey of 2 1/2 hours over roads that were not great. Once there we were divided into three groups, one for those who did not want to walk too much and would have the tour in a minibus: this had approximately 12 takers, the next, where is those who wanted to walk to the great enclosure, not up to the Royal Palace, which was at the top of a considerable hill: only 4 did this. The rest of us about 20 took the full tour. Our guide Stephen, who was obviously not used to  elderly walkers, made no concession for my slow pace. We climbed up to the Royal Palace via the gentle route. This still included quite difficult steps. Very narrow at times. The view from the top was quite magnificent and David, and most of the others climbed up to the lookout called the balcony.

There were lots of school children there who were very excited at seeing white visitors. We then walked to the museum, but this was in darkness, so a complete waste of time.

From here we proceeded to the great enclosure where the walls were rounded and up to 6 m thick really - very impressive. After this, we went to the hotel and had a pleasant non-gourmet lunch under the trees near the swimming pool. I then had a swim in the pool which was not too warm. Several others just lazed beside it. Next stop was a craft market, but interestingly nobody wanted to visit it, so we just drove back under two hours to the train which had moved during our absence.

Back on board I had a short siesta and we then went down to the bar for a drink before dinner.

Antelope Park. November 11th

Another early start, so we managed without breakfast. We boarded the coach at 8 o’clock for a short drive to Antelope Park, where we had a short talk after being welcomed by an African band. After this we boarded a game vehicle for the very short ride to the lion enclosures where orphan cubs were rehabilitated to be returned to the wild: but although some of these lions who is six years old, they still had 57 of them, and none have been returned yet to the wild. They put chicken carcasses in their enclosures once a week and we witnessed two lions in each racing forward for them. It was all behind wire fencing and gave the air more of a zoo. In reality Antelope Park was more a commercial zoo, than an animal rescue centre

After this many people chose other options which had to be paid for. We just went for a walk over a scenic bridge and sad in an arbour overlooking the lake. After a while, we continued until we got to a dam and sat there for a while until the Sun became too hot. Then we retraced our steps and went to the swimming pool, which was a bit slippery, slimy, but with David‘s help, I got it in and out okay . Then it was time for lunch which was a pleasant buffet.

After this, we went back over to our shady pergola overlooking the lake before going back to the swimming pool for another swim. We caught the second bus back to the train at 4 pm. The train departed an hour later for  Bulawayo,

Matobo National Park. November 12th

We disembarked the train in Bulawayo at 9 am so were able to have a leisurely breakfast. We drove for about 30 minutes to Matobo National park where we decamped into three Safari wagons. Our driver and guide was called Dylan who had Portuguese parents.

We drove for awhile and then stopped for a bushwalk to see three rhinos. We were able to get quite close to these animals, a grandfather rhino and 2 5 to 6-year-olds. It was really interesting to get up close with these animals on foot

After this, we stopped to examine ancient cave paintings by bushman and heard about how many bushman existed .

Next stop was lunch at the Matobo Hills Lodge. This was an idyllic session with the mountains and huge rocks surrounding it. After lunch, I had a swim in the wondrous: pool, but with difficulty walking along the surrounding pause in bare feet, due to the intense heat of the paving stones. But the swim experience was well worth this discomfort. We then had a talk from Ian Hams. Then we departed for  the grave of Cecil  Rhodes, which we had visited in 1972, and had fond memories of it . The view from the top of it was fantastic.

Back at the entrance gate the coach eventually turned up and we got back to the train soon after six. After dinner, in the bar we had an conversation with Leonie, one of the hostesses, which gave us an interesting view on South African dating customs .

Hwange National Park. November 13th

Another early start from the train which has reached Hwange National Park. So we skipped breakfast and alighted at 6.15 for a 630 start. The Safari vehicle and its driver were slightly below par so it was not such an enjoyable experience as other game drives. But, that said, we did see 2 lionesses and their cubs feeding on an elephant carcass soon after the start.

We also came across several families of elephants, the occasional giraffe and zebra, Sable and baboons at a water hole, near the end of the morning session. I was offered the front seat and this was considerably more comfortable than the very bumpy backseat and even hotter. The temperature rose to 39° during the day. We stopped for lunch at a very pleasant area and we were given picnic lunches and cold drinks.

At 1 o’clock we set off again for a drive of up to 3 hours , but little game to be seen and soon a puncture led to us returning to the train before 3 o’clock. I then started on the packing and realised that several days washing has not yet been returned. David went up to enquire about this, but even so the laundry did not arrive until after we had had dinner, so we could not close the big suitcase, until after dinner.

During dinner,The restaurant was nicely decorated and Lawrence delivered a good farewell speech

Victoria Falls to Johannesburg. November 14th

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before leaving the train at Victoria Falls at 9 am. We proceeded by coach for five minutes to the entrance of the Victoria Falls walkway. Then had 90 minutes to walk by ourselves along this with wondrous views of different parts of the falls, but with the heavy spray making photos difficult at times. Back at the rendezvous with a few minutes to spare we indulged in an ice cream - the boys tell me this was the only ice cream of the entire holiday..

It was just starting to rain as we got into the coach to take us for lunch at the Lookout Cafe. By the time we got there, the heavens had really opened, and despite being provided with an umbrella we were quite wet by the time we entered the cafe. The view was really something but we were not able to sit where we wanted. Then there were three horrific bursts of thunder. David, saw the flash by the entrance to the restaurant. Then the rain turned to hail, and the wind was such that all the tables in the large restaurant, were unusable. David decided that he did not want lunch at this stage and we sat on the sofa for a while, but were then informed that our 12.30 taxi was already available at 12 o’clock

But when we went out into the horrific rain and ventured through huge puddles to reach the taxi we found it was not yet there and we had to stand in these conditions for at least three minutes getting wetter and wetter. David and I were driven to the Victoria falls hotel where we picked up our suitcases and two other Rovos rail passengers.We got to the airport 1 o’clock and got swiftly through formalities. We took off after 3 pm for the 90 minute flight to Johannesburg where we were met by the hotel car. A 15 minute drive to Safari Lodge Hotel. This was a delightful old-fashioned hotel, reminiscent of African hotels 50 years ago. it had a charming garden with a minute Swimming Pool . Very pleasant, simple dinner in its old-fashioned restaurant

Johannesburg to Fugitives Drift. November 15th

A really good night sleep. Pleasant breakfast and then a stroll around the garden At 9:30 we were driven him back to the airport where we picked up Hertz hire car. Their employee who installed GPS system in the car obviously knew little about it and managed to put in an incorrect destination we realise this about 30 minutes further on and David managed to put in the correct destination.

It was a six hour drive, stopping once for petrol, with the last 20 km  on  dirt  roads. When we got too Fugitives Drift Hotel, we found that we have been upgraded to the lodge where the rooms were three times the price of the guesthouse that we had booked. I went for a swim in the pool, where David kept his foot on the roving vacuum cleaner so that I would not get attacked by it. We then wandered to the Harford library, and impressive building with a fine lounge and balcony overlooking the river.

Went up to dinner soon after seven and drinks round open fire with the only two other guests David and Jane. Then inside for dinner with the host, Doug Rattray. Interesting conversation, but I could not always understand Doug's soft voice

Zulu Battlefields- Isandlwana. November 16th

We had breakfast at 7 o’clock a we were at reception at 7:30 for the trip  to Isandlwana, the site of the battle between the Zulus and British in 1879. We had a very good guide, Brian, who drove us , with two others, over the Buffalo river from Natal to Zululand, to a museum with a good view of the hill where the British under Lord Chelmsford  were camped. During the drive we listened to a recording by David Rattray of the Day of the Dead Moon.

Then  we drove to the hill , with cairns denoting graves and some individual graves and monuments. During a coffee stop he gave a long description of the battle and the victory of the Zulus.

We got back for a delicious lunch and then I had a swim. We went out again with four others at 3pm to Rorkes  Drift where a small number of the 24th Welsh  regiment had survived a 12 hour attack by 4000 Zulus on the subsequent day after Isandlwana. 14 VCs were awarded as a consequence of this. Doug gave a long, passionate, emotional account of this. We then saw the memorials for both the British and Zulu dead. 

Drinks around the fire and then another good dinner where we chatted to Brian.

A Second Day at Fugitives Drift . November 17th

A supposedly leisurely day with no set outings in vehicles. We had a good breakfast and then ventured out on a 4 km walk . This took us over two hours. It was very hot by the time we got back to the lodge. I then went for a swim by which time it was time for lunch. This was very good again and afterwards I had a siesta.

Then at 3:30 we had afternoon tea followed by a walk to see the graves of Coghill and Melville. We were quite a large group guided by one is their gap year  assistants. By this time, the temperature was much lower and it was a really good walk with great views of the river Buffalo and more accounts of how the British had fled across the river, losing regimental colours en route. Near the end of the walk we were surprised to find cocktails set out for us: most welcome.

There were 25 people for dinner with no host this time.

Fugitives Drift to Three Tree Hill Lodge. November 18th

A morning at leisure. After breakfast, we sat on our balcony until 10 am when we vacated the room and decamped to their Harford Library, where we spent the next three hours, reading and enjoying the magnificent view over the Buffalo River. I also had a swim in the middle of this period.

After lunch in the same building, we left the lodge for the three hour journey to Three Tree Hill Lodge. This proved difficult to find  and we only reached there at 5.30. Cheryl made us very welcome and we were soon installed in our own , delightful, two bedroom cottage with spectacular views over Spion Kop. I had a quick dip in the cottage's miniscule pool.

At seven we walked  to the restaurant where we dined with Cheryl, Kate and Andrew. After that an early night

Trip to Colenso. November 19th

We woke up early and enjoyed the beautiful view over Spion Kop from our balcony, before walking the four minutes to breakfast at 7:30: this was most enjoyable.

Then at 8:30.Pierre gave us a talk on the battle of Colenso: the talk was in their impressive library. At 10 o’clock the four of us left for Colenso. En route we is stopped by the railway where Winston Churchill had been captured in 1889.

Then we got to the graves of some of the fallen of this battle of January 1889. Here Pierre set out chairs and a table, and spent a long time, explaining the battle to us, the English man in charge, Buller, eventually withdrew his .troops. We got back to . the lodge about two for a late lunch.

We enjoyed our afternoon tea at 4 o’clock and then walk down to the main swimming pool which was under many trees. It was quite cold but I really enjoyed it.

Then we walked to the edge of the property to enjoy drinks as the sun set. Dinner at eight and a power cut at nine, so we walked back to our cottage by the light of our torches.. The food was not so good as at Fugitives.

Trip to Spion Kop. November 20th

Woke up really early, but Chris was so tired. Went to breakfast at 8 and we left for Spion Kop by 9.00 with Pierre, Andrew and Kate. Once there we were told the story of how the British managed to pluck defeat from the jaws of victory. Basically if the British Generals, Buller and Warrren, had not ordered a retreat, the British would have triumphed. Instead of which they retreated, leaving the Boers at the top of the hill.

Once back to the lodge, it was straight into lunch and then Chris had a long siesta being woken up just in time for afternoon tea. After this she had another swim in the main pool and then a few minutes back in the cottage before there were drinks around an outside fire, two new couples having arrived to chat to. We dined by ourselves and then had an early night 

Leisurely day at Three Tree Hill. November 21

We set out for a walk up to 3 trees Hill at 7:15 so that we could accomplish the walk in the cool of the morning. Three Tree Hill was where masses of British guns fired across  at the Boers on Spion Kop: the walk was somewhat is less arduous than Chris had feared.. We returned two hours later for breakfast, which was taken on the deck: this had magnificent views. But there were rather too many flies, Chris then had a long siesta and  then enjoyed a swim in the nod in the cottage's tiny, but warm, pool.

We relaxed the afternoon away until teatime. Then at six we went to view the sunset with sundowners. Again this being immediately followed by dinner at seven. There were several power cuts in the evening and during the night.

to Cathedral Peak. November 22nd

A sleepless night with various power cuts. After another delicious breakfast we enjoyed the balcony for the last hour before departing soon after 10. We arrived at Cathedral Peak after 90 minutes, the last 15 or so of these in the national park. We were too early for the room to be available, so we wondered around for 40 minutes or so before going in to lunch: this was a buffet, nothing special, but adequate.

We had a discussion with reception before this as we were allocated to a table without a window view and told that we would have to keep this for our whole 4 day stay. They did not deal with the situation very well, but we were assured that we would be moved to a table we liked the following lunchtime. 

When we got to the room after lunch, rediscovered, David’s iPad had been left behind at Three Tree Hill. David emailed the them and they said they had found it, and could leave it at the Dam View Butchery in Bergville. We went to the large swimming pool, this was some distance from our room and I enjoyed my swim there then we had afternoon tea on the terrace.

Soon after five, we wondered out for a walk towards Dorian Falls, but it was too far away for us to reach there. Then we went to the bar and enjoyed cocktails there looking at the fantastic Drakensberg mountains. The cocktails were very cheap. Then in to dinner soon after eight: this was another buffet. The soup and the roast beef were very good. There were a large selection of puddings, but nothing excelled here.  

Cathedral Peak Hotel. November 23

Chris went for a swim before breakfast, and then we left soon after 10 for Bergville to collect David‘s iPad from the Dam View Butchery where Cheryl had left it for collection. The round trip took little over two hours. After a pleasant lunch, Chris made an appointment for a massage the following day. Then a siesta before a swim and tea. By this time there was thunder around but no rain came. We enjoyed a cocktail outside the bar again before dinner . After this we sat  in the bar finishing Davids beer for awhile. 

Cathedral Peak Hotels. November 24th

There was thunderstorm during the night but sunshine in the morning and I had a swim before breakfast and again just before lunch.

And after this, I had a massage then tea before a two hour walk to the Doreen Falls. The storm had lowered temperatures from the high 30s to the low 30s, but this was still fairly hot. We showered and went down .for drinks at the bar. Later we dined,  by now accustomed to self service for everything. There was a big group of up to one hundred who created much noise at times.

Cathedral Peak Hotel. Sat Nov 25.

There was a thunderstorm, and much rain during the night and the temperatures were down to 17° by breakfast time. We went for a wander in very light rain after breakfast, discovering the Bowling Green tennis courts, the climbing tower and various other activities en route .

Then to the room  for more reading before a swim. We had an early lunch,  this, a so called Brai, out on the lawn, nothing exciting.

Then I had a very relaxing facial massage.

We drove to the golf club after tea and started the climb towards Williams Lake: after just thirty minutes we got quite high and had a wondrous view. An  energetic walk, if only of an hour's duration.

My last Pina Colada for 2023 at six and a final, self serve, roast beef dinner

A before breakfast swim, the pool all to myself.

We left the Drakensberg at 10.00 am and had an uneventful drive to Joburg airport, arriving there by 3 pm.

We had to wait 30 minutes for the Turkish Airlines desk to open, but after we had checked in we enjoyed two hours in the spacious S.A lounge with excellent food. The flight to Istanbul was 45  minutes late boarding and this caused chaos at the gate, there being few seats while waiting.

Then the inside of the plane was at a temperature of over 30C for another 45 minutes. I discovered that this was somehow the fault of the airport but no apology or explanation was made by the crew.

After such a poor start, the ensuing food was delicious and Davids half of the service was excellent. We eventually took off at 7.15, and landed in Istanbul just before 6am. Then at 9 am the final flight to Valencia.